We may think of clothing as something functional or as a way to express ourselves. Regardless, throughout the centuries, it has often been used to stimulate change, act as resistance or make political statements. Clothing has often been chosen as an act of rebellion, or to provide a form of armour because the wearer felt alienated from mainstream culture.
From the slogan t-shirts and ripped denim of the sixties counterculture movement to the red liberty caps of the French revolution, clothing allows wearers to share powerful messages. A new exhibition at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) is bringing this history to life and sharing the many ways in which fashion can exert control, power, communication and change.
Examples of modern fashion messaging
Here are some fascinating examples of modern clothing power that bring the exhibition’s messages to life:
– White was chosen by the suffragettes when marching for their rights to vote. The colour was chosen for its purity and sense of equality, as white was the ultimate sign of the male gentry of the period. Equality campaigners at the time even wore trousers, which was illegal across Europe and the US and a powerful symbol of the patriarchy. In fact, women didn’t generally wear trousers freely until the sixties.
– The leather jacket is perhaps one of the most powerful symbols of the counterculture movement, with patches and embroidery which tackled the obvious images of consumerism.
– Before digital media, some designers used their clothing to share powerful messages – such as Patrick Kelly and Katherine Hamnett, who both used t-shirts with slogans to share powerful messages of protest and equality.
The drive to sustainability
Today, people are choosing clothing based on its environmental credentials and opting for sustainable materials and eco-friendly choices that display their values. This sustainability drive is being seen in everything from the growth of knitting kits from brands such as woolcouturecompany.com that encourage people to make their own, to vintage clothing.
The changing landscape
There is no doubt that fashion will continue to be used to stimulate change, and the growth of digital media means that its image and power can be shared at the touch of a button, offering exciting opportunities for designers everywhere.
